The weeke of the Witchdoctor

February 9, 2011

I have not written in what seems like forever and was thinking about this as I biked home this morning. I really like blogging every night which is weird because I have never kept a journal and have despised English class since grade school. But I really enjoy it here, it helps me unwind and it is always good to put your thoughts to paper, helps clear the mind. Kind of like during the homily at church when you are just with your thoughts. I enjoy it. Also all of my friends here find it really weird that I write everything down and don’t admit certain things. I was thinking about it, and I don’t think there is any reason to at least so far because whatever happens I am bound to tell someone in the family (Andrew or Hannah possibly) and we all know how well secrets stay within the family, so I was thinking about it and there really is not point to not always tell everything that is going on. It is also weird but I feel a ton safer within my village, walking around then I do walking from my car to the house at night in GR. I guess this is not saying much for the Westside, but I still love the Westside.

I spent this weekend with Claire and Randi, but also ran into Jake, Paul, and Yue. How does that happen, all the white people end up together all the time. How to is it possible that we always run into each other, we all live in villages and Mpwapwa is not that small. But still every time we run into each other. It was great, we made lots of good food and watched movies. And made WINE. I am really excited, I hope it turns out. I have to call Claire every few days to tell her to stir but other than that it is really easy. We made mango, pineapple which should be awesome. We also made lentil burgers and sweet and sour pork. I live in a good life in town. I also have a new addiction: passion fruit. I ate over 2 kilos in less than 4 days, things are not looking good. The only redeeming factor is that I cannot get them in the village so I will have a break between them. I already have a little rash on my lips from eating to many, they are just so good. (Dad I think you would really like them because they are both sour and sweet at the same time)

In other news, I bought a plane ticket so I am officially home April 28 to May 18. I am really excited. It should be great I will be home for my birthday, Hannah and Lindsey’s graduation and mother’s day and the 5K, things couldn’t be more perfect. It should be great. I was looking at a calendar and realizing it will be here before I know it. Time has been moving at a good speed which is great. Randi, Claire and me were just discussing my mental state a few months ago and it is crazy how time flys and things change. I would never have guessed I would feel this good at the moment. Still plenty frustrated but a million times better. Very thankful for friends and family that helped me get through that time.

I told you how I made posters a few weeks ago about my chicken project and talked to a few groups/ meetings about it. Well guess what, nobody came today. We are going to try for Friday but I am skeptical. I am thinking it is going to be about 1 month before this happens we shall see. It was a little comforting today when Claire called to tell me no one showed up for her English group either. Nice to know it isn’t just me. I was thinking maybe it is my horrible Kiswahili but Claire’s is amazing (that is what you get when you date a TZ, maybe I need to try).

Been thinking a lot about my research at the moment and am thinking termites and soil quality might be really cool. I really don’t want to do farming judging on how things are going this year. I am pretty sure that most of the crops in the village are going to die within the next few weeks if we don’t get any good rain. It has not rained for 1 month so far, a good rain anyways. This Is a little scary because this is what the villagers eat all year, and if there are no crops what do they do. I talked to Randi and people from her village are going to the mountains tomorrow for a rain dance. I am interested to see how that works. And would do anything at the moment to get some rain.

Also went and talked to Jessica today and on the way there ran into a little kid maybe 2 with a razor blade in his hand just hanging out and then at Jessica’s, Paputo (son) was playing with both a knife and trying to light matches. It is so interesting to see how kids live in different parts, I have come to accept some of it, but really why they think this stuff is ok. I usually just look at them and pray they don’t hurt themselves. American mother’s could not handle it hear. There are way to many dangers for their children.

Lately I have been burning myself really bad from cooking. I really hope this stops soon because at this rate, I am going to look like a burned victim all over my arms. And tell me again how the women in this village can spot my new burns everyday from so far away. It takes me forever, how can they see them. I had a huge blister on my finger for hours before I noticed.

Also Randi thinks she has a stomach ulcer. That sounds so horrible. So naturally we looked it up on the internet and as usual it was all over the place. There is never just a mild diagnosis it always goes from nothing to horrible, I don’t think there is anything half way. You either just have a cut or cancer.

Jenna if you are reading this, know that I am not speaking to you at the moment (which is not a problem because I have no service lately) because you would dare go to Steamboat without me. J/K. I am so jealous, you are going have such a great time. I miss skiing so much, even the falling part which as most of you know, I am really, really good at.

One more thing, I went to the seamstress and am having a gown made, I hope it turns out well. Next on my list is a sweatshirt.

February 10, 2011

I played another game of chicken while peeing today with the cockroaches, not matter how used to them I get, I am still going to scream bloody murder if one ever touches me. I am really hoping this never happens. I was also looking in my garden today and noticed a huge hole in the ground, I am praying to God that that is not a snake hole and is just a lizard hole. Again not something I wanted to notice today, I can just picture me walking into my house and a snake slithering by. I probably would have a heart attack from this.

I went to the school today and talked to the head teacher. I didn’t plan on this, I was actually on my way for a run, but started talking to him and he asked if I was interested in teaching. I have been thinking about this a lot and really thought that I didn’t want to at all but then I started thinking about it and I actually think that I want to now, especially since I really don’t do that much in the mornings because everyone is at the farms. So I am considering it, but I think that I would want to teach chemistry or math if that was possible. They talked about life skills but I would rather do math or science.

The rain gods are also tricking us this week as it has looked like it was going to rain for the past few days but so far all we got was a little tease that lasted maybe 10 minutes. I am hoping that is enough though for the crops to hold on a little bit longer. I hear March is a rainy month so if they could just hold on for a few more weeks that would be great.

My neighbor came today to help me with my Swahili and I realized more than ever how horrible it has gotten. I was doing really good, but then I got lax and not it is beyond horrible.
Also made corn pancakes today. I know they sound horrible and they were just as horrible as they sound, but of course I added butter and honey and they were edible. It is really bad that all I was thinking while I ate them was how I wasted an egg on them What has my life come too.

I almost forgot while running today, I tripped at least twice and just barely caught myself. It is going to be a miracle if I live without getting seriously hurt on that mountain. Jessica told me I need to run in the fields but those just are not as fun and there is no shade.

Also my sandal broke today, so I took it to my neighbor to get fixed. The entire time I was thinking this sandal cost me maybe 3000 shillings ($1.50) and I am paying to have this fixed. It kind of puts life in the village in perspective again.

Tomorrow I have a lot going on, so hopefully all goes well and I have the 2 meetings that are suppose to happen. Stay tuned.

February 11. 2011

I awoke bolt upright today because I felt something scurry across my mattress or so I thought. After carefully investigating, I decided that I must have dreamt it. But then I was making my bed and a little lizard came walking across my mattress. OMG. Why can’t animals just stay away from my bed it this really too much to ask.

I think I might have had the second most productive day of my entire service so far. I had 2 meetings today that were actually suppose to happen today. It was a miracle. First I talked to a group about chickens and we set up a weekly meeting where me and people from the area would come and talk about chickens. I know that you are thinking, she knows nothing about chickens, but you are wrong. My professor Blair sent me a bunch of books so I have been reading lots. And I am really hoping people from the community will be teaching more than me. The second meeting was about a few women from the group that make these really nice clay pots to cook with. This also went great and I think they are going to begin selling them in town. Which is awesome because it gives them hopefully another source of income.

So you know how I have said that it hasn’t been raining here well apparently in the next village over, some of the villagers that are into witchcraft got together and did a sacrifice. The sacrifice for rain was an old man. Can you believe this and apparently the old man said it was ok. I know all types of people exist, but I really thought the sacrifice of humans ended a long time ago. Apparently not.

I also again today was brought back to reality when I handed a signup sheet to 3 women and none of them could even write their own name. I am ashamed at how fast I forget things like the fact that most of the elders and old women are not educated. I forget because Jessica although only finishing primary school is amazing. It is so sad. I also just found out that only half of the form 4 (senior year) students in the country passed their final exams and are allowed to move on to university. This means only for my village only 5 students passed. One that can move on to possible university in the future and the rest can be teachers. The educational system has a lot of work to do.

February 12, 2011

I think I have finally figured out why I hardly ever sleep through the night and am always half listening for someone. I have decided it is because when I am actually in a dead sleep. These are the times that people choose to come and greet me. Let’s say at 5 in the morning. That is reasonable right. I want this greeting through the window to stop but not sure how it can yet. Also people are starting to get mad that I am not greeting them right away. How do I explain that yes I am going to great them but I was waiting for my companion to finish before I started. Apparently talking over each other and budging in is ok and suppose to be done. It drives me nuts. I hate interrupting people.

I went to my first funeral today. I went to Jesca’s and she asked if I wanted to go to the funeral. I said why not. The funeral was held at the house. The women and the men sit separately around the yard. The women all have a kanga on the bottom and top half of them, luckily Jesca let me borrow her clothes for this. Then small group by small group the women greet the family and give condolences. And everyone eats. It is really weird because it is not somber like the funerals that I have been too. Everyone is just talking and hanging out. I didn’t really know what to do or say. So I just stood really awkward.

I think I have figured out why I do not understand anyone. They are all speaking Kigogo. Why do they keep insisting on speaking Kigogo to me when they know I am going to just give them a dumbfounded look.

Also I think you can let bread rise to long. I left it for about 8 hours and it smells a little weird. Of course I am still going to eat the bread, but I wouldn’t offer this to anyone else.

February 13, 2011

As I was walking home today from J2 I was thinking how I had a wonderful day and was really happy. Then I started to think that I am starting to enjoy somewhat being here. Although not all the time, I really enjoy the company of the village and everyone is so nice. I am not going to lie though it is just too hot here. When the sun is out I cannot think of doing anything luckily I hear June and July are cold.

It rained today for 3 hours it was awesome and it cooled off to where I had a blanket on and was able to drink chai. I loved it, but then it got me to thinking about how I will feel about the cold weather when I get home. I think I am going to get cold really fast now.
I started my day by running for 30 minutes. It was great and I actually feel good, not like I am going to die. I am hoping to make this a normal part of my day. I think it helps me get out of the house, greet people, and get some exercise in. The only problem is how early I have to wake up.

Jessica taught me how to make the equivalent of cornnuts. They were really good but I really wanted them to be BBQ or ranch flavored. These are now on the list of things I want to eat when I get home. But they were really good and really easy, so I think I will try and make them as a snack.

I was also thinking how totally normal it is now to share a plate of food with a group of people. Us all dipping the ugali in the different sauces. I think George Kastanza (Seinfeld, if you didn’t know) would have a problem with this. Although I don’t think anyone actually double dips.

February 14, 2011

Happy Valentine’s Day!! I almost forgot about today, but Claire texted me. You would never know from the dukas and everything that today was Valentine’s day, although Jessica did tell me that she heard something about it on the radio. I wish I had some candy hearts to eat today, Oh well.

Do you know where your water comes from? I can now say that I know exactly. It is approximately a 1.5 hour bike ride across god knows how many different mountains and up some more hills. It was like a never ended climb. I am also ashamed to say that while I was dying, the mzee (old man) that was showing me does this 2 times a week. And I think he is like 70 something. How can he do this. But we finally arrived at the water source. It is pretty cool, it is a serious of dams that catch the runoff water from the mountains. I am really amazed at it and even more amazed how they were able to build a pipeline from the source to the village. It is really impressive. Also I have to say how it is amazing how you can take one way to get somewhere and then a completely different way back. I have no idea how, but we ended up in Mpwapwa town, so we took the road back which was great because I am pretty sure that I would have died otherwise.

I had not yet ripe peanuts today. I am not sure yet what I think of them. They have a very interesting taste. I also think I might start cooking sardines. At first I thought they were gross but I am starting to crave a lot of salt and they are very salty. The verdict is still out if I will start eating them.

February 15, 2011

Apparently I am trying to kill myself this week. If biking through the mountains was not enough for me, I decided I would help my bebe on the farm. We left and after a 45 minute walk arrived at the farm. We then spent the next three hours straight weeding the garden. I can now tell the difference between corn, sorghum, peanuts, watermelon, and pumpkin. It was really nerve racking because the crops are still young, I did not want to accidently weed the crops. After this we returned home, where I was unable to move for the next few hours. My back is killing me, I am SO grateful for tractors and modern technology, this experience gave me a whole new perspective on fertilizers. But it was fun and it defiantly helped my Swahili. I have learned that I just need to spend lots and lots of time with people to better my Swahili although I still pretend to understand a lot because you can only ask them to repeat so many times. I am still having trouble though with people talking to me in Gogo, I understand this is their first language, but I only know the basics, please give me a break and speak Swahili.

I again made bread today and it was actually descent. I am attempting everything on kerosene because I really hate starting the charcoal so it has been a long process and still is not quite there, but it is getting there.

I think the weather is on the verge of changing again. It has been overcast the last few days and is starting to be brisk. I even got to make tea today which was awesome, I look forward to this new weather, although it is not good for cleaning clothes. I also washed my feet today for like 20 minutes, the amount of mud that can cake themselves on my feet is unbelievable. I do not know if I will ever be clean here. I have a feeling when I return home and get off the plane people are going to stare because I am so dirty. I have a huge fear of this.

I have started Swahili lessons with my neighbor and every time I am dreading them because it is so late and I really just want to go to bed, but then I am pleasantly surprised when I enjoy them. And they are really good for me because I can tell her to talk slower and ask lots of questions and not worry about if she is thinking that I am stupid or not. I am realizing now that I can understand most of the words that are being said but I am unable to translate them fast enough into English so that I can understand them completely. They just talk so freakin fast.

Going to visit Claire tomorrow. I am really excited. I love hanging out with her. Hopefully we will go visit my favorite Chapati(bread) lady. And I think we are going to climb the hill in town for some much needed exercise. Maybe I will even have some mail tomorrow. Lots to look forward too.

February 16, 2011

Not sure what it is, but I think my villagers have a six sense when they know I want to head into town early. This morning was no exception. I got up early to head into town before the sun beat down on me and then as I am brushing my teeth, I can hear the jembe at work outside my house. Apparently today was the day that we were going to replant my garden. So now I have a brand new garden full of corn and sunflowers. We shall see how this works out. I have my doubts seeing as I do not see a lot of rain in my future. But I might be wrong.

Then as I am biking through town today, I was thinking, I wonder if the kids and all the people seeing my will ever get old. In maybe a year will I stop hearing “Mzungu or Good Morning Teacher” as I bike in. I am hoping that this will happen because it would make the ride so much more enjoyable, but I really don’t see this happening, judging by the fact that the kids in my village still freak out every time they see me and run all the way to me to give me high fives. ( and yes I have become that girl that gives everyone high fives)

Where is the RAIN

January 30, 2011

I went to Dodoma this weekend and had a great time. I went with bunch of friends: Claire, Paul, Tanya, and Jake and then ran into a bunch more when we got there. It was so much fun, we just hung out, ate really good food, and watched movies. I even bought some fabric to make a dress. Now I just wonder how long it will take before I decide to actually go to the seamstress. I really like the fabric and I don’t want them to mess it up.

One bus ride home it was packed, so packed the police actually made all the people standing get off at one point and then I think a bribe might have happened and all the people got right back on the bus. This is my first encounter with a bribe that I was aware of the situation. I was also thinking that I wonder if Guinness Book of World Records have ever come to TZ to see how many people can fit in a car because they are really good at packing people in.

I splurged and bought cheese this week, so me and Claire had cheese sandwiches tonight. They were awesome, as usual.

January 31, 2011

Three Weeks of frustration finally ended today, I finally had my meeting, not in the exact way I wanted but at least people came. It was great me and Jessica got to talk and I am hoping this is a glimpse of the months to come. Also I planted a garden with the women’s group in front of my house. It went awesome, with me not doing anything and Jessica teaching them. (this is how it is suppose to be) It was so great and all the women seemed at least really interested. We are going to plant a few more gardens so hopefully they turn out. I also used the jembe (hoe) a little and all the women thought that was funny and then told me that I could stop. They don’t think I can do anything because in American, machines do everything they say. So things are finally starting to turn around and I actually feel needed a little, well at least today anyway.

Also I have been thinking we I get back to the US I am going to have to break some things that I have noticed I have acquired while here. First it is culturally appropriate to pick your nose and I find myself doing this around a group of people. I don’t know why I do this, especially too because I find it disgusting, especially because they always pick their nose and then want to shake your hand. AAHHH It is so gross. Also I think I will be starting to state the obvious a lot. Here everyone asks what I am doing such as “You are going to town or you are carrying water” (this is when I have water on my head). I find it annoying and yet I ask these very same questions to the villagers. Another one is just saying “hiya” to everything and grunting in some form for an answer or acknowledgment. I think it is going to be very interesting when I return.

I lost one of my nalgen bottles which is really sad because I have had it for over 1 ½ years and was just thinking how cool it would be if I kept it until I returned. NEVER think thoughts like this or you are bound to lose it, which I did. We tried retracing my steps but nothing, most looked at me weird when I asked if they had seen a water bottle until Claire informed me that they are probably thinking of the cheap water bottles that you get water in. Luckily I brought another one, but of course the women of the village never miss a beat and with in 1 minute of seeing me and my new bottle they were wondering what happened to the old one.

Passion fruit might be my favorite fruit of all time. Also Aunt Marti informed me that yeast needs to be mixed with warm water, not hot. This might explain the period of bad bread. I am learning so much here about stuff that I should know it is ridiculous. Also a lot of stuff that doesn’t matter like why is it better to put bread in the fridge. One student asked how many presidents the US has had and I am ashamed to say that I have no clue. I know I knew at one time, but not now. Mrs. Choffel would not be proud right now.

Hannah called today and somehow we started talking about me and Andrew and it was really funny. Because he has the crazy personality and I am the more reserved, quiet one yet we live the complete opposite lives. It is weird how that happens. I also skyped with Stephi, Colin, and Alex together. That was so much fun. Those three crack me up. I love hearing about their adventures, it makes me miss college and actually just having a beer. It is not the same here. I just don’t feel relaxed here. I am always on some type of guard.

February 1, 2011

Exciting news, I got approved for my vacation which means that I get to buy a plane ticket soon. Yay. So get excited. I also made a calendar to keep me motivated to work out, so tomorrow I start in preparation for maybe a 10K I don’t know. Something to just get me started, I really want to do a half marathon but I don’t think I can do it yet, maybe next year I can do the Kili half.

Not too much happened today. I talked to my neighbor and she is going to start teaching me Swahili once a week and we are going to make a fuel-efficent stove together. I spent a lot of today reading and trying to figure out some homework stuff as well as what I want to accomplish this week.

Tomorrow is Jessica’s sons birthday, so I am going to make a chocolate cake for him. I hope it turns out.

February 2, 2011

So I attempted to make a chocolate cake today. It might be the worst thing that I have made to date. And if that was not bad enough, I even tried frosting which didn’t work either. But I was able to turn the frosting into no bake cookies, luckily. Another bad day for cooking. Oh well. But then I got 2 free meals today so that made up for it. J2 made me dinner and then my neighbor brought me some macande which is a corn and bean mixture. It was awesome. It takes all day to cook, so I have never made it, but it is delicious.

I just finished “the art of racing in the rain.” It is a book about a family from the perspective of the dog. It is both really cute and really sad. It also reminds me of Bailey dog a lot. (aunt Diane and aunt Tricia not sure if you should read it) Aunt Tricia it might remind you of Harrison, although not me because for some reason Harrison scared me to death. All I can remember about him is that he liked cheese singles and was always locked in the kitchen on 9th st. And it also makes me want to get a dog really bad when I get back.
I am having the hardest time waking up in the mornings which is both a good and bad thing. I went to go running this morning and it was already too hot, so I decided to do some pilates and then go for a walk and take some pictures of the soil erosion in the area. I am so out of shape. My body just aches today.

I planted my herb garden today, so we shall see how that goes. I think we are on week 3 of no rain. I thought this was supposed to be the rainy season. This is not good. I also stepped on a thorn bush today. They have thorn bushed everywhere and when you step on them it is like having many nails go through your foot. It is not pleasant.

February 3, 2011

I went running this morning. It is amazing what a calendar can do for a person. I was laying in bed trying to decide when to go running, in the morning or at night and for some reason because it said on the calendar, I had to get it done with so that I could cross it off. It was really nice too. It felt good to be running, although I could hardly move when I returned home. Luckily I have little to do during the day, so I spent a bit just laying down.

I attempted to talk to some women today about selling their clay pots in town. It was a no go as everyone is at the farm. The village is so quiet, there is hardly anyone here except the children, who I am avoiding at the moment. I am still not over the stealing of my bread dough or my magazines. Soon enough I am sure they will all return, but I am enjoying not having them around.

I went to the duka and put up some poster’s about my chicken meeting today. We shall see if they stay up or get torn down. I cannot remember if I told you, but I out 2 posters up on my door about the projects I am starting and the chicken meeting. And on my return, it was all gone. Now why would anyone take my posters. I was really hoping that they stayed because I thought that would be a good way for the village to see what I am doing and a lot of people walk by my house on their way places, but apparently this is not going to happen. The duka’s will do though I think.

I am also ashamed to say that I didn’t throw the chocolate cake away and ate it with peanut butter. It was actually not bad with peanut butter. I just didn’t want to waste it or find the kids eating it later. So I ate it, which I still am not sure why. It really was not good.
In Dodoma, they have a new restaurant that serves hamburgers and I am craving one right now. I cannot wait to go back, the food is really good. I also cannot wait to eat a big mac. I know they are horrible for you, but they taste so good.

I am also sad to admit that apparently chameleons are seen as insects here and should therefore die. I was walking and asked the kids what they were doing and they said that they were killing bugs. This would explain why I never see any cool things, they kill them all. I also thought a pack of dogs was going to attack me today. I have never been scared or threatened by dogs but today I really thought they were going to get me. Luckily they didn’t.
I forgot to mention when I was coming home from Dodoma, I witnessed my first flat out corruption. In TZ it is illegal to stand on the bus but the people usually just pay a fine and then go on their way. This time, the police made all the people standing get off the bus and then everyone (standing and sitting) was going to have to go down to the police station and then miraculously everything was forgiven and we went on our merry way. Very Interesting.