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Do widzenia Michigan! Habari Tanzania!!


Saturday, August 28, 2010

I have survived my first week at site

August 7, 2010
I spent the last week shadowing another Peace Corps volunteer in Same, Kilimanjaro. We met her in Moshi. Moshi is very beautiful and clean. I went with a few other volunteers and probably saw more white people in a day than I have seen in the last 2 months. It was an amazing break from homestay, which I love but it is nice not to have someone looking over my shoulder the entire time and just to be able to read and relax and not speak Swahili. I really enjoyed this. We went to a really cool bar that had an outdoor movie theater along the water. So I got to get a drink and watch a movie, it reminded me of the scene in A Good Year. Moshi if you didn’t know is at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro so it is very touristy and has a lot of western influences such as a toilet seat.
After spending 2 months here, I think I have decided that if there is only one thing that I can do in Tanzania, it is to climb Mount Kili. So people that want to climb it need to start thinking about that now because although it sounds cool, it is also really expensive. I think it is about $1500 so start saving now. I also think that I am going to come home at some point because although everything is getting better here, it is hard being here. And I would love to see everyone. So hopefully this is going to be a possibility.
I have found out that I will be living in Dodoma, Tanzania for the next 2 years, which I am really excited about and scared about at the same time because I know how hard my first few weeks here were I can only imagine that they are going to be that much harder considering I will be living all alone. But I am ready for it and I know that it is going to take time to get use to and assimilate into the village. I also had a hard time when I first found out where I was going because it is nothing like where I imagined myself going, I had the same type of reaction when I found out I was coming to TZ but after a few days of letting it sink in I am really excited. At the moment I imagine that I am going to be living in the middle of the country in a desert type area kind of like Arizona.
August 8, 2010
The mouse that has been keeping me up at night has seen its last days. My mamma killed it outside the house today and then my brother came and brought it so me. I was still pretty scared of a dead mouse. I can handle cockroaches and huge insects but I draw the line at rodents. I am for sure getting a cat now. I also helped cooked dinner tonight. We had pilaf and chicken. The chicken was freshly killed by I am not sure but the feathers were plucked by my sister and I helped chop the body into pieces. It really wasn’t that disgusting I think the thanksgiving turkey is worse.
August 12, 2010
Today I visited an environmental lab and it was amazing. I am definitely a nerd for saying this, but we got to talk about soil, chemistry, and GIS, 3 of my favorite things. It was great. We also did some soil tests and this made me feel like I was back in class in Alberta. It was kind of nice. The trip also got my thinking about my research for a short while and all the resources I have available.
My family showed me pictures today of me and the family at my good bye party and after looking at them I remember why I didn’t want to get transition lens. The pictures were not pretty. Alex, Stephanie, Andrew, and Hannah you will also be sad to hear that I wore socks with my sandals out in public one day. I am becoming almost everything I cringe at on other people. I am not that far away from wearing a muumuu. I hope Africa is a good excuse for my fashion mistakes but even I don’t think that is a good answer. Let’s just hope they don’t fallow me back to the states.
If you didn’t already know, there are many things that me and my friends all talk about but mainly we only talk about 2 things: Food and Sickness. Today was a great day for that seeing as we all are at varying degrees of sickness at the moment and today was pie day. All we talked about was different types of pies and cobblers. It was amazing. I am thinking about trying to make a mango cobbler when I can finally cook for myself.
I have 5 more days at homestay and then I BECOME an actual volunteer. I am really excited and nervous because I will be on my own. I am also a little sad that I am leaving my Tanzanian family. I really enjoy them and feel very comfortable around them. I cannot wait for the day when I can have a full, good conversation with my mamma that doesn’t involve the food or being hot/cold. I told her in a year I would be able to have a good conversation with her, so hopefully I continue to progress in my language skills.
Also I finished The Da Vinci Code and it was amazing. I am not sure why I didn’t read this sooner. I have now started a Nancy Drew book and forgot how much I loved those books when I was little. This also reminded me of the time my dad left his car unlocked in front of the house and somebody stole my Nancy Drew books out of it.
August 13, 2010
Finished Nancy Drew and still managed to get scared from a book that was written for children in the seventies. I am such a scaredy cat.
Today I got to talk to my friend Mary who is leaving for Cameron in September. I wanted to tell her all about what I am going through and that I know it will be hard and at times you are really going to wish you were back home, but that it does get better and that it is all worth it. I am so excited for her to start her PST she is going to have so much fun.
I had my final test today and I find out Monday if I passed and if they are going to send me to site. It was a one on one ½ hour oral test. I was really nervous going into it, but I think that I did alright. I was able to understand and answer all of the questions which is a good sign now just to see if I answered as correctly as I thought that I did.
Walking to the shower today I thought how funny that it is that I have a cow that is literally 3 feet from where I shower. I have my own personal guard cow. And as for weird things that happen in Africa it turns out that I have a bacterial infection. From what you ask, my own sweat, even though I bath 2 times a day with soap in case you were wondering. Apparently I was not built for Africa and their warm weather.
August 14, 2010
I am so happy with my homestay family. They are so nice and make me feel at home here in TZ. I love them because they keep telling me that nothing can hurt me here that I am safe and for some reason I actually believe them. We were talking about when I will be living be myself and I said that I will be scared in the beginning. My mamma told me that I should use a bucket for the choo at night so I don’t have to go outside the house. I totally agree with her and will be doing that I am sure. But they are right nothing can hurt me, I just need to get over my fear of mice, snakes, and darkness.
So I have been living in Bagamoyo with Tala, Lola, Kenzi, and Alli. We all have to be the complete opposite of each other and in normal life probably would not be friends but since this isn’t a normal life, we are all friends, really good friends. I could not be more happy that they are the ones that I have been living with for the last 2 months. Tala is from California and is short. (Dad this is your fault that I refer to her this way) She is hilarious and is has so many good stories. She dropped a flashlight down the choo and lied to her mamma only to have her babba call her out on it because he saw it when it was lighting up the choo hole. Lauren aka Lola is from Florida and is white as can be. The African sun is not going to be good for her she burns all the time. She loves to dance. Kenzi aka Konzu is from Wisconsin and at the moment fits the stereotypical cheesehead because she worked in a high end cheese store for the last 3 years. I know you are wondering what a high end cheese store looks like and I am too. She also plays the bagpipes. And Alli is from Minnesota but has been living in Iowa. She loves Iowa and sailing. I love them all so much they have so many funny stores. Kenzi’s family wakes up at 4:15 in the morning and Hodi Hodi’s her so that by the 3:00 pm she is delirious and looks and acts like she is drunk because she is so tired. Lola had the unfortunate event of losing her phone, puking and having diarrhea, having only potatoes for dinner, and almost dropping her flashlight down the choo all in one night. Alli is awesome, she is fearless. She let her baba cut her hair. Mind you that her baba is a mason. But her hair looks really good.
August 15, 2010
Today I went with my CBT to Tanga for one last hurra before we leave for site. It was really nice, in an attempt to leave earlier I was suppose to go and get my friend Kenzi so her family could see that we were ready to go. The plan backfired and I ended up having breakfast twice and then we got to Tanga and had breakfast again. So today I feel extra fat. We then went to the beach which was amazing. Of course we all forgot our bathing suits but we decided to use our Khanga’s as bathing suits and went swimming. I think that it might have been our best idea yet. After that we went and ate pizza that was amazing. It was thin crust and baked to perfection.
August 17, 2010
I drank with my mamma at homestay last night. My baba kept insisting that I drank more, he told me he wanted me to drink 2 beers (4 American Beers) which I did and kept insisting that I drink more while the little kids kept asking if I was drunk (unalewa?).
We left homestay today and I could not be more happy about it. The family that I lived with were great but I am so ready to live out on my own and actually start my PC work. I learned a lot at homestay and will never forget all the wonderful people and things that I learned but now I am ready to move forward and start both my projects and begin to think about the research that I am going to do.
But I am very scared and excited at the same time because I have no idea what to expect and I am aware of how hard the first few weeks of homestay were I can only imagine that site will be a hundred times harder. I will be in a new village, were I don’t know anyone and they are probably not aware that I am coming. My village speaks both Kigogo and Kiswahili of which I only know a little Kiswahili and I moving into a house by myself with nothing in it. I get to spend the first few weeks preparing my house and getting to know both the village and the villagers which I am really excited about. I have decided that I am just going to continually put myself in awkward situations, so eventually they won’t be awkward anymore.
Also I passed all of my tests and am suppose to be able to speak at a intermediate high in Kiswahili which I am skeptical of but I have 2 years to work on it. We have a huge party and swearing in ceremony tomorrow. I already have the flask filled and ready to go. ( Al and Steph I thought you would enjoy that)
August 28, 2010
I have spent my first week at my site and it has already gone better than expected. I really thought that I was going to feel awful the entire week and totally dreaded it. But so far site has turned out better than expected. I am very happy with my house. I have 3 rooms and a courtyard. I am very happy about the courtyard because it makes me feel safer. The only problem was when I got to site I didn’t have a front door, so I have had a girl sleeping with me for the last week which I didn’t mind to much but I don’t want her to stay. I am kind of thinking it might be a ploy for me to have a house girl but I am not going to let that happen, I really want to live alone. The village is nice and I am at the base of a hill (small mountain by MI standards). I can get all of the staple crops of TZ minus fruit and bread which is nice. I don’t have electricity or running water or cell service in my house yet for that matter which really stinks but I am working on it. I bought a solar light that also charges a phone so that is really cool and has helped a lot.
Me and 2 other volunteers are new to the area, Randi and Paul. Paul is about a 2 hour walk from me and Randi is a bus ride away while also Jake, Claire, and Yue are close. I am also about a 2 hour walk from town or a bus ride away so I can get things that I need and have reliable cell service on somewhat of a regular basis.
In my village they speak both Kigogo and Kiswahili so it looks like I will be learning 2 languages simultaneously which I think is going to be a huge challenge but I think I am ready for it. I want to be able to speak with people and start to do some work so hopefully I can catch on fast.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

July in TZ

July 4, 2010
I am really sad that I am not at the cottage today. I think this is only the second time that I have not been at the cottage on the 4th. The 4th is my favorite holiday, especially when we have theme weeks. I miss laying out in the sun and floating in the water. I am pretty sure that the cottage is my heaven on earth. But I think I am in the right spot at the moment even though it is hard to be here at times. I think that this experience is going to be amazing and I am hoping that I am at least a somewhat descent writer so you can get an idea of what Tanzania is like.

July 7, 2010
I am not really sure where to start so much has happened within the last few weeks. We left Dar es Salaam about 3 weeks ago and since then I have been living with my homestay family. I am in Bagamoyo, Muheza, Tanzania at the moment and go to school 6 days a week learning Kiswahili. It has been a really hard transition in that I am so unfamiliar with the language it is hard to articulate what I am trying to say. I now remember what it was like to be a 2 year old. There are 5 of us girls that learn together (Alli, Lauren, Kenzi, Tala, and me). We have become pretty close bonding on homestay and school.
My Tanzanian family includes my Baba, Mama, 2 dadas (sisters), and 5 kakas (brothers). They are all very helpful, sometimes a little too helpful in helping me understand. We live in a 4 room house. I seem to be one of the lucky ones that has a separate choo (bathroom) and shower area. We have lots of chickens and ducks that run ramp it everywhere and multiple roosters that love to be my alarm clock. My Baba is farmer. The cows hangout outside my front door. I have my own room which probably has the biggest bed I have ever slept in caged in by a mosquito net so I don’t get malaria. It also is a good shield against the 5 inch cockroaches and countless spiders. So far I have been one of the lucky ones not to have a pet popo (bat) in my room. We have no electricity or running water so I use a lantern at night and help fetch the water. I do carry it on my head but I still need at least one hand on it. My dada also gives me a top for my bucket. I hope to master head water bucket walking by the end of my stay. I have to say I am very thankful that I brought my head lamp it has been one of the things that I use most.
So far the best way to describe my living conditions is camping in the desert where you have to carry in all of your water and food and have no way to save any of it. A typical day for me consists of me waking up at 6:30 am and sweeping the yard. The yard consists of dirt with trash thrown everywhere. They don’t put their trash in the garbage, they throw it in the lawn. So every day I sweep the entire yard up and throw the dirt behind the house under the banana tree. So far this has been the one thing that irritates me most. Why aren’t there any trash cans, I just don’t understand. After that I help wash dishes and then I head off to my bucket bath. After that I have breakfast and my friend Kenzi picks me up for school. At school, we learn all about culture and grammar. I think this the hardest part of my day. I probably am on the verge of tears at least 3 times because I don’t understand or I think of home. I didn’t think it would be this hard to be away. The living doesn’t bother me as much as the lack of communication, that and my poor Kiswahili. I think I have the best teacher because he is very patient, especially when I get really mad and don’t understand. They construct their sentences so differently and think in such a different way. We have a chai break at 10 and lunch at 12:30. My favorite chai break is when we have chai made with milk and chapati ( a flat bread that reminds me of olgas bread but not as sweet). Lunch consists of rice, cabbage, beans, meat, and oranges as it is orange season at the moment. We usually take a walk before we return home and grab a soda. No beer at the moment because women drinking beer implies prostitution, something very useful to remember, that and smoking. At home I usually help cook a little and study. I then eat dinner and take another bucket bath and am in bed by 9. I really enjoy going to bed early it feels amazing. I think I have taken more showers in the last few weeks then I did in the month I was home.
I think that I am learning a lot and every day is getting better it is just so hard to adjust to this new way of life. There is a lot of sitting around and spending all day making the meals. We mainly eat rice, beans, and cabbage. My mama makes chapatti and andazi (donuts) which are amazing. I think the homemade donuts and milk chai are my favorite, especially since the milk in straight out of the cow. Probably the best meal ever. Aunt Tricia you are going to love the andazi and chapati recipies and the homemade chai. A lot of Tanzanians also eat ugali which is a stiff porridge. It is made with corn flour and water, it isn’t the worst thing I have ever had but it is pretty close, I might put the Hawaiian poi in front.
Last Sunday I helped make lunch and for a minute thought I was in Poland with Janek. I helped pull the heads of a gazillion sardines and the whole time I was just praying we were going to eat the tails and not the heads. Luckily it was the tails and I was able to eat it like a champ. This was one of the times that I thank god I don’t have a weak stomach. I also wash my clothes by hand. From my first time I have gathered that I am going to have great arm muscles by the end of my stay and my clothes are never going to be clean. I LOVE washing machines. Also American clothes just are not going to cut it with all this washing they were not built for the hand washing shenanigans.

July 8, 2010
I am not sure if I feel like I am in Africa yet let alone a developing country, it still feels like I am just camping. The village I live in, women are always covered up. They all wear skirts or dresses that cover their knees and arms. It amazes me that they don’t die from heat stroke. At the moment it is 77*F at 9 at night so you can imagine how hot it gets during the day, not to mention that it is the middle of winter. I cannot wait to see what summer is like.
My Tanzanian family is very interested to hear about America and where I am from. It is so hard to explain considering we have nowhere near the same climate. So I drew a picture with the months, temperatures, and some pictures of trees. I also found out not only is it hard to talk about the weather but it is even harder to explain the difference between a coniferous and deciduous tree. This was a conversation in itself, which then led to how trees get harvested and travel to the mill. My baba wondered if they still traveled by waterways. He learned this in school in 1964.
We went to Muheza the bigger city by us to learn about the market and found out that surprise because I am white, I am going to get ripted of. Slowly we are learning to bargain. To get there were had to take a dolla dolla (small bus), it is probably the equivalent of being 25 deep in the van, very crammed. The first time we rode it, the driver tried to make us pay 1500 shillings 3 times the normal price. Luckily we knew how much it would cost.

July 9, 2010
I talked to my mom and dad for the first time today which was really great. I was able to explain to them where I was and my dad googled it and was able to see the village that I am staying in. It was great to hear their voices and catch up a little. I was also able to talk to my Grandma and Aunt Tricia which was also really nice, especially talking to my grandma because I usually talk to her every Wednesday but at the moment that is not possible. While talking to them it made me realize I have not really explained what I am doing at the moment. At present there are 40 PCTs (Peace Corps Trainees), we do not become volunteers until we make it through training and have been sworn in, that are split up into different villages. Every village has 3-5 PCT that they go to school with everyday. On some days we all get together and learn. These days are called MATi days and are a much needed rest from the real world. We still have to learn but we also get to hang out.
Today was really great because at MATI, each village did separate skits on adapting to the new language and culture. Everyone’s skit were great and really funny. So many people brought up incidents or funny stories that happened to them within the first few weeks. It was really fun and entertaining. It was also nice to see that everyone is kind of in the same boat with adapting to the new environment.

July 11, 2010
Yesterday morning each village had to make a permagarden in their village. It went really well especially after talking to other groups. We planted a 1 m x 1m garden with swales and berms. On the berms we planted cassava and in the middle we planted cowpeas, African spinach, and corn. I am a little skeptical if our garden will actually grow due to the ramp it chickens (who have no fear) and our lack of remembering to water it. But I hope for the best. After gardening we met all the other PCT for volleyball, soccer, and tug-of-war. To start off the festivities, we saw some African dancers perform acrobatics. It was insane. They balanced off of old chairs and blocks that looked like if you were going to touch them they would break. I am pretty sure if one of them would have fallen, they would have died instantly. We also got apples for a snack yesterday and I think it might have been the best apple I have ever tasted. It came from the Mount Kilimijaro region.
Today I went to muskitini aka the Islamic mosque. I was suppose to go at 9 am but didn’t even leave until 11:30 due to other things. I am very happy for that considering we were still there for 3 hours. I cannot even imagine staying for the whole thing and I am pretty sure it started before 9. It was very interesting. I have never been to a Islamic mass before so it was really cool. The men and women sit separate from each other. The women have to have their legs and heads covered needless to say I also had my head covered and felt like I fit in well in Tanzania. I like to think it took some people a little bit longer to realize that I was in fact a white person. At the end of the service, everyone was given food to eat. It was fun to see but it also reinstalled I am so happy to be Catholic.
I also ate rice for the first time with my hands. I don’t think that it is something I prefer but now know I am capable and can do it with minimal clean up. And I think that sardines might be growing on me a little I had like 10 dry, salted ones and they seemed alright.

July 13, 2010
Last night at about 3 am I heard a loud noise and then my pen fell off my desk. To me this could only mean one thing, something or someone had fallen into my room from the ceiling. I then preceded to hear the scratching of metal on and off for the next few hours. This whole time I was curled up in a ball with my head lamp on trying to get the courage to see what it was. I finally fell back asleep and jumped out of bed this morning. I kept the door open so whatever fell in could get out. (Hannah this was almost as scary as the time the raccoons were scratching our tent at the lake and then we ran inside). I survived only to be greeted by a gecko falling from the ceiling at school and a frog meeting me in the shower. Oh wildlife.
I find it weird how fast my mood can change. I literally wanted to kill me teacher today and then later we went out for a soda together. It is so hard to learn and retain this language, especially when I don’t think like my teacher. He is a very good teacher and is very patient though, just not always straight forward.

July 15, 2010
Today we talked about where we could potentially be living. This made me really excited and scared because on one hand this means that I will get to actually live on my own and have my own space but then again this means that I will be on my own, ALONE. I know I will be happy where ever I get placed but at the moment I am really hoping for mountains or the southern highlands.

July 17, 2010
Scratch that we just arrived at the beach and I am pretty sure that I am never leaving. We have completely taken over the resort. The house that I am staying in is huge and all open. We have running water, electricity, and toilets. It is paradise. I awoke this morning to the sound of waves crashing on the shore and was able to see the sunset. I walked along the beach and say a ton of tiny crabs running all over as well as a bunch of sand dollars. I picked one up to give to my homestay family, it is so beautiful here. There is a really nice breeze and you can hear all of the waves crashing on the beach, if any of you have ever slept in Stephanie’s bed with Marge on, this is what it feels and sounds like. For breakfast we had fresh fruit, granola, cookies, granola, and cinnamon rolls with juice and coffee. I really think I might not leave.
Also I am working on taking a lot of pictures and when I have good internet I am going to upload them so you can see them, but at the moment the internet sucks so when this will happen I am not sure. I am trying to take a lot of pictures so you can see what my living conditions and Tanzania in general looks like.
I have started my wildlife count= 3 monkeys. I hope to add to this soon but I don’t see it happening for a while.
July 22, 2010
So the bat that I thought I was good with turned into a mouse. A mouse that I woke up to at 2 am to him walking on my net on to my head. His little feet were touching my hair. I am not ok with this. It has been a few nights and I am starting to get used to him but it has taken some getting used to and me realizing that something the size of my fist cannot hurt me.
This morning at school while we were all waiting to get picked up to go to MATI (school) my friend’s brother came running into the house and slammed the doors shut. We stood outside as men came up to the house with clubs in their hands, yelling that they needed to talked to Alli (Tala’s brother). Her mamma and grandma came out and starting yelling at the men and then they eventually left. It was really scary because we didn’t know what was going on or what Alli did. Our teacher walked up and explained to us that they were the guards of the village and they wanted Alli to go to a 2 month training to be a guard, but his mom said he was sick. The men then left. I am not sure if our teacher told us the truth or not but I would like to believe him. Also I have a hard time telling when Tanzanians are actually mad and angry as opposed to regular conversation sometimes. But everything was fine and I am glad that I experienced this and was with people when I did.
I learned to graft a tree today. I grafted together a mature mango with a young mango. This was done in order to have the tree produce faster. It was really cool. If I ever live in the south I am going to graft an orange, lime, and lemon tree all in one. We also had a seminar on TZ health and I found out that although I don’t know a lot about health, some people know even less. This scares me a lot.
I also had a test right before I left for vacation to see how I was doing so far with Kiswahili. I got a 81.5% on the written and an intermediate mid on the oral mid-term. I am really excited and this gives me hope that I will one day be able to have an actual conversation with people in Kiswahili.


July 29, 2010
I learned how to bake a cake without a cake mix and an oven. I have to say it turned out surprisingly well considering I am in the middle of Africa with nothing but a charcoal grill and some pans. It was a joint effort between me, Tala, and Kenzi.
If anybody is still wondering about my mouse, I have named him Henry and he greeted me yesterday as I was walking into my room. It is amazing how easily I was able to tell my family in Kiswahili that I just saw my mouse friend again. I now Hodi! Hodi! my room before I enter. I make as much noise as I possibly can.
Sunday I also had the fortune to get henna done. When I was younger I thought it always looked so cool and always wanted it. Be careful what you wish for. Instead of getting henna on the top of my hand, I now have it all over my toenails and one hand. My homestay family was really happy about it but I now look like I am dead. My nails look like they are dead. I will be painting them a lot with the pink nail polish that I bought because every time I look down I am a little more freaked out.
Also if you are looking for something new to cook. Sauté an onion in oil and then add some cut up cabbage and tomato. It is my new favorite dish.